Todo Offers Mexican Family Style Meals
New Concept on Hawthorne from Seasoned Portland Restaurant Team.
Portland, OR (8/16/22) – Grab a warm, soft corn tortilla, fill it with a few slices of spit-roasted pork pastor, sprinkle on some chopped onion and cilantro, squeeze a little lime juice over it all, and spike it with your favorite salsa. Repeat as needed.
That’s the approach at Todo, the new 4600 sq/ft restaurant on Hawthorne, where diners order taco fillings by the pound, choosing from chicken tinga, carne asada, vegan picadillo, flash-fried rockfish, and more. An order includes a stack of tortillas and a choice of accompaniments such as pico de gallo, crumbled cotija cheese, and the classic taco topping of onion, cilantro, and lime. Sides of rice, beans, and guacamole or salads like the nopalito made with cactus round out the meal.
“We’re doing high quality, traditional family-style Mexican food in a modern cantina environment,” says co-owner Marco Frattaroli of Todo. “This is the way people often eat and drink in places like Mexico City.”
The menu features dishes from different regions of the country. Specials include cochinita pibil, the Mayan pit-roasted pork marinated in achiote and citrus, and suadero, the most popular taco filling in Mexico City. At Todo it’s made from a special belly cut of Piemontese beef, flavored with garlic and black pepper, and slowly cooked in its own fat.
Those who’d rather not roll their own tacos can make a meal from a short list of small plates, including quesabirria street tacos served with the brick-red consomé for dipping, or order aguachile, the ceviche-style marinated fish that originated in Sinaloa. Desserts include an arroz con leche rice pudding and a chocolate gelato flavored with cinnamon and chili, custom made by Pinolo Gelato especially for Todo.
The History & Team
Veteran Portland restaurateur Marco Frattaroli and his long-time chef Fernando Aquilera created the Todo concept during the early days of the pandemic. A vacant space next door to Cibo, originally leased to expand Frattaroli’s Italian restaurant on SE Division, was repurposed for meals that people could take home and assemble easily. The make-your-own taco kits proved popular, so Frattaroli and Aquilera expanded the menu to open Todo in June.
Head Chef Fernando Aguilera, who’s originally from Mexico City, has worked with Frattaroli for 17 years and shares Marco’s well known curiosity to deep dive into food history and culture. Together, they developed a simple menu using high quality meats and ingredients and traditional cooking techniques.
“Our menu will expand as business grows,” says Frattaroli. “We expect to evolve, just like cuisines evolve over time. Take quesobirria. This street food from Tijuana is a mashup of a quesadilla and the traditional birria soup from Jalisco. It’s a modern creation that was only recently popularized and we’ve got it on the menu. So we’ll see where the cuisine leads us.”
The bar features classic cocktails with a modern spin, including a frozen margarita made with Pueblo Viejo blanco tequila and dispensed from an old school slushy machine, and a negroni using Union Mezcal as its base. The short but impressive wine list was developed by Marco’s longtime friend turned partner, Tim Edwards. Edwards, a wine industry veteran and owner of Signal Station Pizza in North Portland, recounts his move to the city in 1994 and his early connection to Frattaroli. “The first restaurant I ever went to in Portland was Bastas,” says Edwards, referring to Frattaroli’s iconic NW Portland restaurant, which closed in 2017. “I’d grown up in the restaurant industry and Marco had truly created a family with both his customers and staff. That’s the way a restaurant should be and that’s what Todo’s about.”
Located on the corner of SE 21st and Hawthorne, the new restaurant boasts a soaring, muraled dining room that fills a space formerly housed by four separate businesses. Frattaroli, known for his penchant for doing things the hard way, built all the tables, the bar stools, and a 45 foot terrazzo bar, pouring the concrete and grinding it smooth to reveal his collection of semi-precious stones in the mix. Sidewalk dining and enough room inside for 120 offer plenty of options, and a balcony for private dining is in the works.
Todo is open 7 days a week – from 5 to 10 pm Monday to Saturday, and Sunday from 5 to 9 pm.